New England Provisions

 Cold Smoked Salmon

Traditional Scottish Recipe

Chris Morrison, Proprietor

Clan Morrison, Edinburgh

Enjoy this recipe, easy and fool proof with delicious results.

Hey cold smoked salmon lovers making cold smoked salmon, Lox or Gravlox is easy and foolproof to turn out a Four Star product good enough to serve to the Queen of England. I was in the smoked salmon business for 16 years up in Maine until our smoke house blew up from a gas leak. No one was hurt, thank goodness. The 150 year old wood building was empty and burned down in 15 minutes. It was used as a navy bean warehouse during the civil war. The summer heat in Maine dried that old building to tinder wood. Funny that many times we were smoking salmon the fire department would show up sirens blaring. When smoking the smoker vents all of it's smoke every twenty minutes through a side flu to the outside. Anyone nearby that was not aware of our business would call 911.

We produced the very, best, cold, smoked salmon and sold it directly to a great number of hotels and restaurants throughout the country. All it takes is timing and here is how you do it. Take a 2-3 Lb Atlantic Salmon fillet (no smaller), and rinse with very cold water carefully and pat dry with a paper towel. Use a pan long enough to hold the fillet without doubling over the tail. You can cut the fillet in half if you don't have a large enough pan. Now comes the easy part to believe. Smoothly cover the bottom of the pan with a 1/4 inch of kosher sea salt. Place the fillet skin side down on top of the salt. Next pour enough salt over the fillet to completely cover it with a 1/4  inch of salt. Trust me. The entire process and density of the salmon automatically adjusts the salinity of the fillet perfectly. It's time in salt with the proper quantity of salt. Too little salt and your salmon will not have the right texture or flavor.

Cover the pan with plastic wrap. Place in the refrigerator for 13 hours. So do this on Friday night at 6 PM and your salmon will be ready at 7 AM the next morning. Don't worry so much about perfect timing, it is not rocket science. Remove the fillet from the pan and wash the salt off the fillet with cold running water. Washout the pan of salt and fill the pan 3/4 of the way with fresh, cold water. Place the fillet in the water and place back in the refrigerator for one hour. This time period can be lengthened or shortened for saltiness of the finished fillet, it controls the salinity of the product and it also desalts the outer surface while driving the salt through the fish to the center. This is a variable for your particular taste. Mine is one hour; start with that. Remove the fillet and dry out the pan. Do not pat dry our wipe the salmon leave wet. Your fillet should be somewhat stiff. Put a cake rack in the pan and place the fillet skin side down. Do not cover. Put the pan back into the refrigerator overnight. The fridge will dry the salmon

perfectly The next day you should have a dry and shiny fillet. At this point if you don't have a smoker; you can slice the fillet and use as lox.

To smoke the fillet, you need a grill with a cover and a small iron box that the hardware stores sell to use a smoke box. Use (hardwoods) maple, hickory, apple just don't use pine, fir or cedar (softwoods) or you will create tar spots. You can find a bag at the hardware store but you can

usually find maple in your yard (sticks, bark, sawdust). Wet the wood for an hour and light one charcoal briquette with a propane torch until it glows. This is probably the hardest part of the whole recipe is getting one charcoal lit. I use a small can with a can opener hole in the side. I fill it with the wood (as broken up in little pieces as possible) and place the burning charcoal on top.

I actually get sawdust from a woodworking shop and fluff it with water. We used to buy bags of sawdust from Kentucky by the truckload. Put the can in the grill as far away from the fillet as possible and put the fillet on the grill close the cover. If you have a cheap, clean soldering iron preferably brand new; you could easily use it. If you have one of those nifty electric

thermometers don't let the salmon get over 70 degrees. Put a oven thermometer inside the grill. The salmon must not ever get over 80 degrees or it will partially cook, turn color and fall apart; you should not eat it if it looks like it is partially cooked. If it is turn up the heat in the oven

to 275 degrees and turn it in to hot smoked salmon. If the day is cold and it should be, you should not have trouble. The wood has to smoke not burn and you have to use only one briquette.

Do not try this in the summer, you need a 55 degree day high and not in the sun. If heat is going to be a problem put a large pan of ice with foil on top. You can put the fillet right on top of the foil. There is no reason to smoke the skin. Keep an eye on the smoke so it does not go out, hit it with the torch if it does. One to two hours is enough. About every fifteen minutes open up the smoker and let all the smoke out. The reason is after 15 minutes the smoke particles start to clump together and will settle onto the fillet as a little dark spot of tar.

Wrap in plastic tightly and place in the fridge over night to mellow out the smoke. Slice at an angle as thin as possible starting at the head end at about 45 degrees. There you have it. Just like in Scotland. I once sold a couple dozen fillets to a club for a party for the Prince of Wales, Prince Charles.

If you ever read a recipe or article that fish is smoked for days; the writer is wrong and maybe is smoking something else. The salmon should be tasty, slightly salty with a rich salmon flavor backed with a nice smoky taste. Salmon first, then smoke and slight saltiness.

If you want to dress up your side; wipe a little olive oil with your palm on the fillet and then sprinkle with either a little black pepper or minced fresh dill and put back in the fridge uncovered for an hour or so to make it stick. You can also lightly sprinkle a very, small amount of good Scotch whisky on the fillet before you wrap it in plastic wrap or before you wipe with olive oil.

ATTENTION: It is a common belief that the salt & smoke prevents bacterial growth. WRONG. Do not let the finished fillet with the skin intact sit out for a long time in a warm room. The skin is air tight after salting  and can cause bacteria to form in the anaerobic area under the skin under if the room is too warm. It would also be wise to skin the salmon after smoking to prevent bacteria. This is a real warning, you can get very ill from botulism poisoning if the salmon gets warm over 80 degrees with the skin on in the smoker or sitting out in a very warm room. Remember it is COLD smoked salmon, so keep it cold.

For Lox just don?t smoke the side. For Grav lox change the brining mixture to half white sugar and half salt. Don?t smoke. Cover finished fillet with chopped fresh dill and wrap tightly with plastic wrap for one day. Serve with sweetened mustard.

Good luck, Chris Morrison  New England Provisions Lobster Company

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